London Fashion Week Men Part 2
Here is the moment you were all waiting, the part 2 of the LFW Men series where I bring to you my discoveries from my very first full-on LFWM and the trends they will dictate for the next AW.
With their AW20 collection called “The Art of Love”, the creative director Yi-Ling Kuo is showcasing his fantastic technical knitwear inspired by the tempestuous elements of the love stories he has witnessed during his travels and those portrayed in movies.
Designed with a 70’s flair and a displayed on a set vaguely resembling the Red Room of Fifty Shades of Grey, 1X1 representation of the idea of tumultuous love is expressed by emotive hues of reds and purples paired with blacks and metallic shades.
The fabrics are made with Corn, recycled gold yarns, vegan leather and metal trimmings.
1×1 pieces are created under the firm belief that there are no marked boundaries between menswear and womenswear and that the true essence of the pieces is in the representation of the inspiration behind it … without labels.
Band of Outsiders
The Band of Outsiders collection is all about the great outdoors.
Taking place in the Dray Walk Gallery, in a set framed by two Volkswagen Camper Vans, Belgian designer and new creative director Angelo Van Mol continue to prove that the street style will never die, creating a collection inspired by his childhood spent in the scouts, and his memories of trips into the forest with his friends.
Rich earthy colours such as campfire red, canoe yellow, clear sky blue are the essence of this season’s colour palette.
The evergreen utility- wear influence is represented by the use of nylon fabrics, cargo pants, drawstrings and lumberjack style check jackets.
His nostalgic memories are brought to life by the work of the artist Egle Zviblyte, known for her work for Adidas, Nike and Pharrel Williams.
Another important highlight of this collection is proof that brand collaborations are often likely to succeed.
For this collection, Band of Outsiders has collaborated with the French shoe company Kickers to redesign their iconic Lennon Boots focusing on functionality for the discovery of the great outdoors.
Padded jackets covered with the seasonal bandana print have been created in collaboration with the London based outerwear brand Lu Mei.
Photo Credit: Leon Mark for Vogue
Photo Credit: Leon Mark for Vogue
The Irish born designer held her first solo presentation after two seasons as part of Fashion East.
She graduated from the University of Westminster MA menswear course in 2018 and has immediately established her brand that is deep-rooted in the culture of her native Ireland.
To create this collection Robyn spent time on Inis Oirr, a remote island populated only by 260 people.
On this island, she saw how clothing represented a connection between generations, a mix of styles that brought together the local community.
“It’s like a different world. When you step back there, it’s like time stops. It’s these young lands and these older men, living by their own rules. It’s what I love about clothes. How they can tell stories about the way we live”, says Robyn.
Her presentation was divided into 3 sections, representing three different ways of dressing: tailoring, functionality, leisure, with a mixture of fabrics and functions incorporating practicality and pleasure.
Grey Irish linen, cut into tailored jackets and trousers which are then intertwined with panels of grey nylon.
She creates prints inspired by Aertel, the Irish Teletext channel to evidence just how quickly our way of sharing stories has changed and evolved, and uses the print on cotton jersey long-sleeves, as well as Lycra long-sleeves inspired by the Irish bobsleigh team.
Water-proof zip-up jackets for both the young and the elderly, this collection is all about layers from the fleece to the black denim with nylon waistbands, to windbreaker pants to go over everything.
A functional and unpretentious wardrobe for the everyday man, both Irish and not.
Photos credit: Glass Magazine
Photo Credit: Glass Magazine
The ethically conscious British designer has showcased her second collection after winning the Queen Elizabeth II Award last February.
Renowned for her sustainable practice and her campaigning for the underprivileged, Bethany has chosen “motherhood, nurturing and childhood” are the themes of her autumn/winter 2020 collection.
She has been working with The Magpie Project, a charity in Newham, east London, which supports women and children under the age of five in temporary accommodation.
Magpie provides a safe place for children to be able to play, as well as clothing and food and access to legal services.
Her friend and illustrator Melissa Kitty Jarram spent time with Bethany at the foundation in order to create the illustrations around the female connection between mother and child.
“I like the idea that if a man supports or buys the collection in store, he’s helping to fund all these projects we do with women. It’s feminist whether you’re doing it consciously or unconsciously.”, Bethany says.
Pieces include a coat woven out of ribbon off-cuts, printed dresses inspired by those worn by children on play date or nursery, and oversized jackets featuring illustrations of mothers and their children.
The whole collection is actually unisex as she doesn’t believe in a marked contrast between menswear and womenswear as she herself prefers wearing oversize menswear clothing.
Her collections are also known for the ethical outsourcing of the materials used to create them.
Bethany told Vogue, “I’ve always loved taking something discarded and giving it time to make it beautiful.”
This collection makes no difference, as the material used are recycled bedding, old blankets and toy ribbon waste, and she has also collaborated with shoe designer Helen Kirkum and Adidas to upcycle trainers that have been given back as part of its circular programme.
Brought up by an environmental activist mother, making sure of using her voice as a designer to do good and to bring awareness is of pivotal importance for Bethany, who is aware of the ability that fashion has to amplify social issues and bring them to the attention of the world on a big stage like LFW.
In tune with the team around family ( not only as in blood relatives but the family that we choose for ourselves) and motherhood, the super packed show opened with a film made by her friend Melissa and a poem by Eno Mfon, to highlight those two concepts as well as the work that Magpie is doing to help these women.